Beacon’s again, this time with a different borrowed board from a different neighbor. This one is a 7’6″ funboard with a pulled in nose and just the right amount of rocker. Whereas the other board affected my take-off and drop because I was worried about where I was on the board, whether or not I was going to bury the flat nose in the face of the wave, surfing on this board was like surfing on one of my own. I paddled out at the secondary peak, caught a wave within a few minutes, a nice head-high left, easy.

The waves weren’t coming too often, though, and the peak shifted all over the place, so my count wasn’t as high as I would’ve liked. Also, this one stringy old guy was playing the role of full local asshole, cussing at people, screaming about everything. He could spin and take off late like that!, but big deal considering his jerk-i-tude. The waves were nice, the break is beautiful, but he had no reason to be throwing such a tantrum — it’s not some ubercritical spot, no one was kooking out. I wasn’t impressed. In fact, I thought to myself, I’m from Humboldt, where the water’s cold, the currents are strong and the sharks make an occasional appearance. You think you can intimidate me with your hissy fits? In these soft little warm water baby waves? Ha!

So I caught another wave or two, then after a long lull, paddled over to the main peak, where some nice head-high sets came through and a few people even made conversation. That’s been the only real disappointment: the lack of friendly “hellos.” Superfun session overall, though — and I even saw the “like, totally” girls again as I was leaving. They hollered “hi” and chatted for a moment.

The sensation of stroking bare-armed through cool water under warm sun? Incredibly pleasurable. I thought I might go back out this afternoon, but kept reading Norweigan Wood instead. My friend Joy, whom I’ve known and been friends with since I was 16 and she was 18, is on her way over with her two kids, so we’ll be back at the beach in a while anyway. I haven’t seen her for years, but we’ll catch up as easily as we always do.

Normally the days last a long time because I do so many things in the course of them. The past few have passed slowly from the lack of obligations. You know when you’re stretching and at first you’re actively attempting to stretch, but then you relax and sort of breathe into it until something gives? Then you straighten up and your neck is unkinked or your shoulders have dropped an inch from the release of all the tension? That’s how my brain feels.