Hey, I caught waves in the O.C.! (Hey, that’s the first — and likely last — time I’ve ever used the term, “the O.C.”!)

Suffering serious wave deprivation, I suggested to a Long Beach friend that he take me surfing. He obliged. I borrowed a 3/2 wetsuit and a 10-foot epoxy longboard and spent two hours in the sunshine goofing around on waist-high waves at Bolsa Chica. ($15 to park!)

Sunburnt face and happy heart!

I have now caught waves in 9 of California’s 15 coastal counties.