Somehow I let weeks go by without recording these — a combination of not surfing much and doing a lot of everything else.

#67: Sets double-over rolling into a crowded line-up of guys who made late drops and pulling into the barrel look as easy as walking down the street. A thrill to watch from where I hung out on the edge, picking off the smaller, in-between waves. Just a few; the water’s chill seeped through my worn-out neoprene and into my bones, serving to make me slower and more stiff than usual. Mostly was happy to have paddled out, given it a go.

#68: A slightly smaller and much warmer version of the day before — warmer because after all my whining, I finally got a new suit! Oh, what a difference to have something without holes and split seams! This time I sat more on the peak, caught one beautiful right that made it all worth it and a couple in-betweeners. The crowd was out in force, again, nice crew, but too many guys far more skilled than I, so while I did position myself better this day, I also conceded the waves to the ones most likely to catch them, get barreled and otherwise provide a fine show for the rest of us. All good.


#69: And then! Weeks passed! And I went crazy! Neuroses in full effect! Despair! Emotional crisis! Insecurity! Off-balance and without hope! And I should have surfed and didn’t! For stupid reasons! And then! I went out last night! And it was beautiful! Peeling waves! A sunset full of all the colors! Moonlight glittering on the water! And joy once again filled my heart! And life is good! And surfing is always, always, always, always better than not surfing! Yay!