Trying to not freak out about the fact that we’re in JULY and I’ve only surfed 30 times so far this year.
#28: Took a friend out who hadn’t surfed in a long time for her first real NorCal experience. Was not epic, but we managed to have fun on Camel Rock ankle-biters. The sun came out.
#29: A much better experience: consistency, shoulders, sets rolling in around shoulder-high. Porpoises.
#30: Took a friend out who hadn’t surfed in a long time. Was not epic, but we managed to have fun on some South Beach ankle-biters. The sun warmed up the air so much I found myself rolling off my board and into the water to cool down. Ospreys soared overhead; one dove. My board did my bidding. All the week’s tension evaporated.