#36: Moonstone, two weeks ago. Small and mushy, still windless and warm.
#37: Later that evening, somewhere else. Tide sucking out. What was waist-high there is head-high here. Much more fun, albeit bumpy. My last wave feels like riding down a staircase. So much so, I laugh out loud. The seal gazing at me is not impressed.
#38: More pretty waves. I mar them with my graceless ways. I ask the same question I always ask: How can I be so bad at something I love so much?
#39: International Surfing Day. Humboldt Surfrider hosts a beach clean-up at Moonstone. The swell’s bumped up, along with the north wind. I would’ve skipped the paddle out, but our volunteers persisted. By the time I reach the outside, I’ve been swept halfway to Clam Beach. But the walls of whitewater don’t translate into rideable waves once there, just mountainous mush. Totally stupid, but so bad, I crack up. Cold, windy, choppy, sloppy, overhead mushburgers… Happy International Surfing Day, Humboldt-style!
Looked today, but not in the right place at the right time. Our weeks of tiny, clean and warm 3 at 9 fades, replaced by this north wind-generated (and therefore cold and junky) 10 at 12. The options become 1.) suck it up and throw myself into conditions that still scare me more than I care to admit; 2.) scale down and “surf” those novelty spots that only work when both height and interval hit double digits; 3.) the gym and running along the ocean instead of into it.
early morning fog, partial clearing 
Though I’m at work right now, my mindset for the weekend is very similar to what you’re thinking about today; though replace the gym and running with a distance bicycle ride.
I rode my bike the other evening, just about 6 miles or so. The road was flat, the wind had died, the sun was settled comfortably into the west. I passed cows and egrets, dilapidated barns and, once off the highway, not a single car. As I pedaled, I thought, this is exactly how I like a bike ride: easy and beautiful. I’m totally lazy on the bike – and greatly admire those of you who do the long-distance thing!
My gym is excellent: Praxis Fitness in Eureka. I’m so lucky for this particular radio station perk. Not one for the typical gym mentality, but Praxis is no typical gym. I may be in the best shape of my life by fall – so I’ll have no excuses for avoiding the bigger surf!