The best session I’ve had all year.


I didn’t dawn patrol given the 38 degree morning – not quite that hardcore – but as soon as the sun warmed the day up a bit, I was out. Head-high, overhead on the sets, I made every wave but the one I took off on while it was breaking.

No wind. No clouds. Just peeling wave after peeling wave under blue sky. Plenty for everyone. Porpoises popping up in the channel now and again.

I stayed out until my arms felt like overcooked noodles, my feet were numb and my calves cramping from the cold.