Surfed again yesterday. Early morning at the Jetty, small and clean. What a mellow fall so far – that’s changing as I type, however.
Why am I not out right now? Feel the need to curl up at home for a bit, I guess. Received sad news about a surfer drowning at Shelter Cove today. Not many details yet.
early morning fog, partial clearing 
Issued by The National Weather Service
Eureka, CA
1:59 am PST, Thu., Nov. 27, 2008
… LARGE WEST TO NORTHWEST SWELL EXPECTED ALONG THE COAST SATURDAY NIGHT INTO EARLY MONDAY…
A STRONG STORM SYSTEM MOVING ACROSS THE GULF OF ALASKA FRIDAY IS EXPECTED TO GENERATE A LARGE WEST TO NORTHWEST SWELL PEAKING AT AROUND 14 FT AT 18 SECONDS SATURDAY NIGHT THROUGH SUNDAY NIGHT. BREAKING WAVES OF 18 TO 20 FT WILL BE POSSIBLE ALONG WEST AND NORTHWEST FACING BEACHES. SEAS WILL REACH THEIR MAXIMUM HEIGHTS SUNDAY MORNING BEFORE SUBSIDING INTO EARLY NEXT WEEK.
BEACH-GOERS SHOULD USE EXTREME CAUTION ALONG AREA BEACHES AS SUDDEN HIGH WAVES CAN RISE UP AND SWEEP YOU INTO TURBULENT AND COLD WATERS. AVOID JETTIES AND NEVER TURN YOUR BACK TO THE OCEAN.