Chest- with the occasional head-high wave. Dying as the tide came in. Stunning sunshine. Fog horn keeping time in the background as always. About seven people out, a dozen max. The only thing keeping me from catching more waves was my insecurity. But I felt confidence coming back. While my wave count remained lower than average, I did have that one wave that made it worth it – even on a small, easy day, a single wave can make the whole session. This was such a wave. A shoulder-high set wave, peeling into a left that went forever – or at least until it turned into a right that went all the way to the beach. My stance started off a bit wide, but I was able to work it, ride up the face and drop back down – my favorite thing, that moment of escaping gravity.

I’m not competitive or an adrenaline junkie; I like to go fast, but my desires are humble. A clean face to slide down, a steep face to float on – I’m lost and happy. Some day I’d like to find myself pulling into barrels on a regular basis. But the little moments are enough to keep me smiling all day.