The combination of rushing around in the Christmas madness, being doped up on Benedryl for the terrible cold I caught, having the kids out of school, coping with a three day power outage, and having the Sunday deadline my life has revolved around for the past five years moved to a Thursday and then the following Monday has had me so thrown off and confused this past week. What day is it? Where am I supposed to be? What am I supposed to be doing? Is anyone making more coffee?
I’m sure it’ll all return to the normal state of chaos soon enough. Power’s back on and I surfed today; that’s a fine start toward righting things.
Surf report: My short, pre-KSLG session consisted of paddling out, paddling over to chat with R, paddling around in an attempt to find the right spot, paddling back toward shore after realizing the rip had pulled me out twice as far as I wanted to be, paddling over to the better-breaking next peak, failing to catch a left, succeeding in catching a sweet, small, easy right that took me close enough to shore that I was able to make it to the beach, the car, the station in time to be on air.
It was wonderful. I’ve surfed so little, and the morning was so clean and clear, that just being in the water was worth the going out. Catching a wave in was icing on the cake. Sometimes that’s all it takes to make things right. Man, did I need the exercise, too. The water is full of debris from the dunes. The big swells and high tides are sucking the beach into the sea.